Thursday, January 16, 2020

El Karama, Laikipia Kenya.

We have known El Karama Lodge in Laikipia, Kenya for many years now. Murrey and Sophie Grant the owners are immersed in wildlife and nature and their honest love and fascination of the area and Africa as a whole becomes evident moments after meeting them. Laikipia is fast becoming a must-do destination, especially for families and those who seek out something different. The area has been a firm favourite for many years. Its a place where one can get to know the people who made this wildlife haven their home well away from the crowds and now shares it with a select few.  

Flycamp Bell-tent against starlit sky. 
El-Karama is an intimate, owner-operated, award-winning lodge specialising in family safaris and small groups looking for adventure in the wild!   Located in the heart of Kenya's most unique and pristine wildlife area: Laikipia, this lodge is found inside a 14,000 acre private conservancy with access to over 200,000 acres of Northern Kenya wilderness. The wildlife experience here is world–class, offering abundant sightings of the Big 4 and day visits to see iconic Rhino. 

Wildlife is superb. 
The habitat supports 430 verified bird species and Northern Kenyan species such as Grevy's Zebra, Gerenuk and Vulturine Guinea Fowl. With outstanding views of natural beauty; guests can wake up to the peaks of Mount Kenya and fall asleep to the sounds of the mighty Ewaso Nyiro river.  It's all about freedom and privacy here: whether you like to walk, fly camp under the stars, game drive, track on foot with guides, fish, visit the working farm and organic garden or learn more about wildlife conservation and education in action with the rangers, the El Karama Lodge team will make it all possible.  

Children on safari. 
The lodge also sports Kenya's first Bush School for children, which is focussed on educating and 'rewilding' children during their safari with us. We are a truly family-friendly lodge and your precious little ones will be kept very busy learning about the bush with our wonderful guides and resident naturalists.

A truly authentic safari experience hosted by some of Kenya's finest…
Sundowners against Mount Kenya.





Breakfast at waterfall. 

Berry detail.

Mess interior.

Walking safari at sunrise.


Walking safari.

Flycamp Bell-tent in landscape.




Wednesday, January 8, 2020

Guest Portfolio - Jan Rijnink
















Guest portfolio - Olaf Friederichs










Galapagos - Islands at the end of the world.

The most iconic Galapagos inhabitant - Marine Iguana. 

The Galapagos archipelago, which straddles the equator, lies off the coast of Equador in the Pacific Ocean and is one of the most biologically intriguing places on earth. Geologically it is a turbulent place. Volcanoes spew up lava, creating barren, hostile islands in the north west of the region. Once created, the islands start drifting in a south-easterly direction due to a tectonic fault-line that moves in that way. 

Extinct volcano. 
The characteristics of the islands change on this eastward journey as the sharp volcanic edges of younger islands are weathered into gradually more flattened shapes. Soils start forming as islands age and allows plants to settle. This in turn creates habitat for some of the world’s most unique life forms. 

Old town Quito,, the capitol of Equador, stopover en route to the Galapagos. 
Isolated by a thousand kilometers of Pacific Ocean most wildlife reached the islands either by flying or swimming there. Terrestrial species had the most difficulty reaching the islands and it is believed that they reached it after being swept to sea on rafts of vegetation from the mainland. Individuals lucky enough to survive the arduous journey had to either adapt or die. 

Yet another endemic species.- Land Iguana, the most common of the three species of Land iguana. 

Endemism peaks and several bird, mammal and reptiles are found here and nowhere else on earth. Some species, notably giant tortoises and some species of iguanas have become so adapted to life on a specific island that they are found on a single island and nowhere else, even on other Galapagos islands.     

The only penguin found north of the equator. Galapagos penguin. 
The Galapagos is home to the world’s rarest penguin (and the only one found north of the equator), the rarest gull, the only nocturnal gull, and the only marine lizard in the world, to name but a few. In short, a naturalists Valhalla. The incredible terrestrial wildlife diversity is mirrored in the sea below and regular snorkeling trips is sure to provide ample opportunity to explore the underwater realm. 

The surreal experience of diving with a marine Iguana.
Pacific green turtle. 
The archipelago consists of 13 major islands, 6 smaller ones and thousands islets and protruding rocks.  People inhabit five of the islands and visitors are allowed only on small sections of some islands. While this may seem prohibitive the sheer abundance of wildlife on these sections are overwhelming while the wild and remoteness of large sections of the islands create a true sense of unspoilt wilderness. 

The region is rich in legend and history with its most famous visitor being Charles Darwin who set foot on the island in 1835. It was some of the specimens that he collected on these islands that had a profound impact on the formulation of his very well know Theory of Natural Selection and our current understanding of speciation today.
And anyone interested in wildlife and exploration will agree that the magic is still as real today as it was in 1835. 


Iconic blue footed boobies. 


Below are some images of island life.

Viewing a Blue Footed Booby colony. 

View from the boat towards San Cristobal harbor.

View from the cabin.

Boat lounge. 

Cliffs on Genovesa Island

Sundowners. 

Our ride.

Photographing Greater Fregatebird. 

Wednesday, September 18, 2019

Wildlife Photography - Leopards only!

First luck after 24 hours of searching. Drinking at dusk. 
We recently hosted a photographic safari specifically aimed at building our guests leopard portfolio. In the words of one of the participants “if you want to get professional images, one has to approach it like a professional”. In other words, disregard the temptation to search for and photograph anything else. Rather put all efforts into finding a specific subject, even if it means missing out on other chances.

One of the most eventful mornings on safari. A large male took an impala kill off this female who then followed his for a few kilometers through the bush. At one point he dropped his kill allowing the female to take it back. Her luck didn't last long as the male eventually took it back and disappeared into the bush. We followed the female who then linked up with her two cubs. 

Looking at the results of such a safari, potential guests and other photographers can easily miss the many hard hours of frustration, patience, and a host of factors that need to come into play in order to get these images. All the images in this blog have been taken during the course of one 8 day safari. In stead of just showcasing the “best of” images I’d rather make use of this blog to explain the many facets that needs to come into play on a safari aimed at photographing Africa’s most elusive large cat.
 
Never to miss an easy meal this female made the most of catfish stuck in a drying, muddy pool. 

The first aspect to consider is to pick an area that delivers consistently great leopard viewing. At Africa Unlocked, we travel more than Not only do the area need to have a healthy population but the cats need to be accustomed to game-drive vehicle. When I started guiding back in 1997 seeing one leopard on a safari was an accomplishment. Nowadays leopards can be seen on several times during the course of a few days. The main reason for this is the care that has been taken and still is in order to ensure such relaxed sighting. Guides and trackers, each of them highly professional in their conduct have, over the years approached leopards in a sensitive manner which allowed the cats to become used to game drive vehicles. Some leopard have seen a game drive vehicle since they first opened their eyes and knowing that is poses no threat are now totally oblivious to its presence. Allowing people to view and photograph natural behavior like never before.

Classic image of a leopard on its kill. 
These ethics are still maintained today. Vehicles are limited to only two at a time which not only limits the disturbance to the animal but also to the environment. No jostling for position where twenty cars (or 60 which I have had the misfortune to see) try and get a good view before the animal eventually takes shelter. Sightings in the Greater Kruger are relaxed and of unparalleled quality compared to many places elsewhere in Africa.

The importance of other guides and trackers’ on such a safari cannot be overstated. If one were only to rely on ones own ability of finding leopard, sightings would be significantly less common. Teams of professional guides are all in radio communication with one another and the collective effort culminates in the frequency and consistency of sightings. Should one vehicle find a leopard, it is a general courtesy to allow others to share in the sighting on a rotational basis.

Leopard move. They are not always draped over a branch in golden light. When following a leopard as it patrols its territory is may get very tricky just to keep up with it. In such instances photo opportunities are almost impossible and we often stay a short while before allowing the next vehicle into a sighting.  Guests question these decisions but it’s important to know that a friendly gesture towards another guide will be reciprocated at another sighting later on.    


Another remarkable sighting of a large resident male walking "down the barrel" towards us after dark. 
Leopards are found in three ways.

1 - Simply bumping into one is as lucky as one can get. Pure luck with no skill involved. It happens from time to time but much less than one would think.

2 - The second is when a leopard is in a known area such as on a fresh kill. If there is enough meat left the animal will stay for a few days and heading into that area allows one to find it, either on its kill or in the vicinity.

3 - The third and most common method in which leopard are found is by traditional tracking. Bush roads are often preferred walkway. This makes it easy to determine the age of the tracks as a leopard track on top of a vehicle track enables one to determine how long ago it was if the last vehicles movements are known.  Highly skilled trackers pick this up and if the tracks are deemed fresh enough are followed. This may take hours and although the cats are often found it may well end in disappointment, especially if the animal were highly mobile and walked further than initially thought.  It may also happen that it walks into an area we are unable to traverse such as another land owners property at which time the search will be called off.

The fresher a track or the more recent an animal have been seen in an area, the easier it is to pick it up again. It does happen however that there are no fresh tracks or sign to follow. One must take into account that our safaris are all in unfenced and wild area. The animals that we are after are still wild and can roam huge distances, which in reality still can make it tricky to find.  The success rate on our safaris are very high but its important for our guests to have realistic expectations and the willingness to stick to a tried and tested recipe that works.

In summary: If these images look appealing and you would like to get similar ones, we invite you to join us and let our tried and tested methods get you the shot.