Maasai Mara Migration trip report. Sept 2017

Day 1

Today, 13 years since our first visit to the Maasai Mara, the area still holds the same promise of wildlife action and excitement as our very first visit more than a decade ago.

The beautiful Fairviev Hotel in Nairobi, our first overnights stop.

Although we all met at OR Tambo International airport in Johannesburg the safari “officially” only started only once we touched down on Kenyan soil. After quick airport procedures we met our transfer at the gate and proceeded to the Fairview hotel in Nairobi. Except for the normal congested Nairobi traffic we reached the Fairview less than an hour after departing the airport. Here in verdant gardens this well kept sandstone hotel provided much appreciated rest after the long traveling day.  Our first safari day came to an end with a round of tusker beer and dinner.   

Geoffrey our friendly tracker for the week. 

Day 2

Breakfast the next morning and off to Wilson airport to our flight to the much anticipated Mara where we will hopefully catch up with the migration. Seamless logistical support from the minute we arrived made traveling effortless and within no time we were sitting high above the clouds over the Great Rift Valley en-route to the Mara.

After our Air Kenya plane touched down Geoffrey who was going to be our tracker for the next few days met us. At the airstrip herds of Giraffe. Topi and Warthog greeted us while a lone Hippo and a single lioness about 500 meters from camp made for an exciting welcoming committee.  

After check in and a light lunch it was time for our much anticipated first game drive. I normally use the first couple of drives to familiarize myself with the area and get an idea of what animals are around. The first drive produced three individual solitary lions, Giraffe and Elephant on the plains as well as host of herbivores, most of which proving new to Southern African travellers.  We also encountered a small herd of wildebeest congregating along the Mere river bank. Although it proved promising, they didn’t cross the river. Back at camp we enjoyed drinks at the fire while everything from fruit bats and hippo’s to Hyenas and Lions serenaded us into dinner and then bed.

No more than 5 minutes out of camp this magnificent male greeted us on the first morning out.  

Day 3

Our morning started as expected very early with a wake up call and freshly brewed Kenyan coffee at 05:00 am. Lions were heard throughout the night around camp and the obvious decision was made to try and locate them.  Barely five minutes out of camp we came upon a trio of two males and a female.  This proved to be the photoshoot of the morning and what more can one ask for than apex predators in great light. Shortly afterwards we located a Black-backed Jackal den with small pups. Although we got some images we agreed that this deserves more time over the next few days. Later on we finally caught up with the wildebeest herds scattered over hundreds of hectares throughout golf course green fields. Breakfast served under a quintessential solitary tree allowed more time to absorb this spectacle of wildlife after which we made our way back home.

In the afternoon we aimed to get a glimpse of a leopard with two cubs but these proved too elusive.  Amidst thousands of heads of herbivores such as buffalo, topi, eland, impala and a single hippo feeding out of water a juvenile Bateleur provided great photo opportunities. We ended our day on the plains with the same three lions we found at daybreak.

Day4

Today was one of those crazy Mara days where the action just never seemed to stop. After a first and unsuccessful search for a leopard along the Talek river our luck turned for the good when we found a pride of lions with several cubs in tow. Shortly after that we swung past the Jackal den where we photographed the pups playing and feeding as dad brought back some unidentifiable food for the pups. A nearby hyena den provided great interactions after which we decided to head back from brunch at camp. This was not to be as shortly afterward we located a very obliging Tawny eagle n the process of finishing off a stillborn Thompson’s Gazelle fawn.

In the afternoon we headed away from the river and the crowds in order to search for our own wildlife. The plan worked beautifully as we saw our first albeit very brief crossing of wildebeest over the Talek river. Shortly after that a nearby due of two lionesses with five playful cubs provided action for the rest of the afternoon. Thinking we would head back to camp a herd of giraffe in the sunset held us captive for the remainder of the afternoon repeatedly passing the best spot for photos. An appropriate way to end a perfect day.

As always fireside drinks with nearby hippos grunting and dinner finished of the day as we retired for bed.

One of the apex sighting sof the trip, a Tawney Eagle with a Thompsons Gazelle kill. 

Day 5

Cheetah were in our sights today. As is normal with Maasai Mara game drives much gets in the way of ones ideas and our Cheetah quest were interrupted hy a hunting clan of Spotted Hyenas shortly after a most perfect sunrise. With tails curled up in agitated excitement the clan ran beside our vehicle for a while in pursuit of some still unseen quarry. Something was about to happen. Upon closer inspection it looked like they were seeing off a lone trespassing Hyena. These highly territorial animals, although very social, won’t tolerate intruders.  We located the cheetah later in the morning already at rest and well fed and decided on a follow up visit. After our compulsory coffee stop we took a leisurely drive back to camp though vast herds of zebra, Wildebeest and Topi interspersed with the occasional Cape Buffalo.

In the afternoon we picked up the herds again and spent a most fruitful afternoon photographing them backlit. 

A young Bateleur Eagle taking off. 

Day6

Good Cheetah photo opportunities still eluded us. Although we had seen them before we didn’t stay long as the throng of other cars crowding the sighting distracted from the quality we strive to maintain. Thus today our aim was set at finding a mother and two almost independent cubs. The days started out with a pride of 15 lions, three females with 12 cubs walking through the yellow Mara grassland. Having had such great lion sightings earlier in the safari we passed up the opportunity to photograph this remarkable sighting.  And the gamble paid off. We finally caught up with the mother Cheetah who obligingly laid down with her two cubs in glorious light atop a termite mound. Two other vehicles were present at the sighting initially but before long they also left the scene leaving us alone with the elegant cats.

The afternoon drive delivered three individual sightings of lions, all of which were fast asleep! Contrary to the morning’s success the big cats didn’t do much and we had to return to camp empty handed. However the experience didn’t end there as three large males close to camp became vocal after dark providing a dramatic serenade while we were having drinks at the fire.

The perfect end to a day. 

Day 7

Everyone visiting the Maasai Mara is hoping to meet up with a herd of Wildebeest herd crossing one of the rivers. Although this can never be guaranteed it is certainly one of nature’s apex experiences. And today was about to be our lucky day. After yet another action packed morning spent with a pride of lions and two female cheetah our afternoon tea on the mess veranda was interrupted by Wildebeest snorts upstream of the Talek river. Dashing for our cameras and speeding out of camp we met up with the herd no less than 500 meters from camp! Once there we got ready for a long wait - these animals can take hours to make up their mind. Again this was not to be as within minutes of our arrival the first brave Wildebeest crossed the Talek river. Soon the entire herd, joined by scattered zebra tumbled down the bank leaving clouds of dust in their wake.  

The Jackal den, easily overlooked proved a most fruitful photography spot. 

Day 8

And so came the end of our safari. In order to allow for a graceful departure we do a shortened game dirve in the morning to allow sufficient time for a leisurely breakfast and check out. Yet even this shortened drive produced a spectacle. The Wildebeest herds which for the most part were scattered in vast feeding groups aling the plains had come together in tightly clumped herds along the Ol Kedyu Rongai spring and crossed this watercourse in battalions of dozens of animals wide. A most fitting goodbye from the Mara, or so we thought. After breakfast and check out  it was the last drive back to the airstrip but not before we was another three lionesses perched on a termite mound as well as a clan of 20 Spotted Hyenas finishing off the last bits of their kill. And so came the end of our safari as we gazed down on the vast green savannahs below. Until next time.

Private Guided Wildlife Photography

When coming on safari and seeing all the magnificent wildlife one is easily overwhelmed, and quite rightly so. After 20 years of guiding I still get a rush when showing guests a leopard slink though the thickets or hearing the shouts of excitement when new comers see their first Giraffe or Zebra in the wild. I will ever tire of that.  Safaris are exotic and often once in a lifetime experiences and for this reason guides must make it as memorable as possible. For photographic clients this entails getting images that it well beyond the obvious. In my experience I have seen that when confronted with all these magnificent animals, it is easy to get overwhelmed. And even though it is super exciting photographing all of this, the results are often very average when reviewing and comparing images afterwards. That is where guiding comes into play. As a guide who have been photographing for 20 years (I still cannot believe that :) ) most of the normal angles have been tried and tested. As a photographer I also want new and exciting images that stand out. Each image below is taken on safari with guests and I am happy to confirm that each and every client got similar images. 


Yet realistically it is important to understand that quantity and quality cannot be combined. It often takes days or even weeks to get the right shot. But if patience persists, the results are spectacular. 
Over the course of 2017 we have hosted several private photographic safaris. Below a few images taken on private photographic safaris. 


Pafuri. 

This almost photographically unvisited region can produce remarkable images. Anyone who wanders off the main tourist track onto this dramatic landscape between the Limpopo and Levhuvu rivers, where ancient Baobabs hint at striking images will be rewarded with unique and exciting experiences. The riparian forests holds numerous wildlife treasures, revealed only sporadically while mist covered mornings along the Levhuvu river creates a most enchanting backdrop for even the most common and overlooked species.

   

Difficult to see, let alone photograph, this obliging Greater Bushbaby or Thick-tailed Galago put in a star performance. 

Misty mornings drape even the most overlooked species in an aura of enchantment. 

The layered landscape of a buffalo herd aptly described by Karen Blixen as "being created in front of me".

Phinda.

One of Africa's biggest private conservation success stories Phinda is the jewel in the crown of KwaZulu Natal's wildlife circuit. Undulating hills, wooded valleys, marshland and a unique Sandforest harbors wonderful species diversity including some fascinating endemic species. Some of Africa's best trained guides reveal the area and nothing is too much effort to get the right shot. 

Kings Camp.

South Africa's Timbavati Private Nature Reserve is one of the worlds premium wildlife destinations and Kings Camp one of the safari circuits premium destinations. Here guests can access large wilderness areas, the camp management professional and welcoming and the guides are just superb. And the wildlife consistently great. 

Almero, our guide made a great effort to get us into this spot with dramatic backlight from another nearby vehicle. 

The perfect position to get this striking cat in great light. 

Mala Mala.

Again, one of Africa;s premium wildlife destinations and a reserve that prides themselves in putting the wildlife experience first. This is the largest property within the Sabie Sands reserve and directly borders the Kruger Park. Wildlife is in a league of its own, there are only two camps on the reserve and no other camp share the area.

A slightly zoomed out approach and interesting lighting gives context to this large male leopard on the hunt amidst blue Foxglove flowers. 

Cloudy days can be wonderful for black and white photography

Guest Images - Timbavati Wildlife Photography May 2017

Below follows a selection of images taken by our guests on our Timbavati Wildlife Photography safari and as you will see the quality is incredible! Copyright remains with each individual photographer. Anyone who wish to join one of our safaris please contact us here. For all European photographers please contact Amazing Views our representing agent for more details. 

Specialist photographic safari - Greater Kruger.

One of the two leopards we saw on our very first drive.

This was the first of two sell-out safaris Africa Unlocked arranged and hosted for Amazing Views, a specialist photographic safari company based out of Switzerland.

Our first day started, as most safaris does, with guests arriving at Eastgate airport in Hoedspruit  and a short road transfer to Umlani bushcamp in the Greateer Kruger. Once everyone settled into their traditional reed chalets we set off for our first game drive. And one could not ask for a better start to a safari. In addition to numerous species of plains game such as antelope, zebra and giraffe we found our first leopard as the sun set in the west. Hardly had we turned the vehicle off when another one was sighted in a nearby tree!! So young male leopards on the first afternoon!

Just to prove that "dab light" is not always what everything thinks.

But with the bar raised that high, what was the rest of the week going to produce? The days all flowed along the following schedule.

Wake up at 5 o’clock am

Tea of coffee (which is brewed on the open fire in the boma).

Departing for game drive about 45 minutes before the sun pokes it head over the horizon. We need to find a subject well before first light.

Midway through the drive we stop for another coffee break after which we return to the lodge and breakfast.

After breakfast we do a photographic session where subject such as light, composition, post processing are covered as well as critique sessions on participants images.

Then its leisure time and lunch at 1:30.

Afternoon tea is served at 3:30 and then its game drive again.

As is the tradition we stop for sundowners after sunset and rerun back to camp after dark.

Never take life (or photography) too seriously.

The fact that we have a private vehicle and are not set to any routine allows us to search for nighttime creatures at leisure and if we are lucky enough to find something of interest we stay with it until all photographic opportunities are done.

We timed our sighting to ensure maximum time at sightings. This was one of the key moments on the trip. Private safaris also means that we could spend as much time as we require and not be bound by camp schedules. 

One such opportunity came in the form of a large male leopard whose kill was stolen by two Spotted Hyena’s. In the hope of capturing some interaction between the two species we returned to the scene after dark. Unfortunately the leopard went looking for other options but two Hyenas remained finishing off the kill. Always with the aim of getting an interesting angle we positioned the vehicle in such a way to capture the reflection of the feeding Hyenas in the water below.

In addition to seeing the two Leopard on the first drive, within 24 hours of arriving we had also seen Lion, Elephant, Buffalo and White Rhino and thankfully the days were filled with consistently good sighting throughout. We also made time for showing our guests how to capture the night sky and this provided a stunning opportunity to do a group photo.

Nothing like sundowners under an African night sky.

The sightings over the course of the week were 5 individual leopards (that almost a leopard a day), mating lions as well as two large males on an impala kill, herds of Elephant and Buffalo and several sightings of Rhino. Not that the big five is the only attraction. Numerous smaller creatures can be found and we photographed anything from owls to mongoose over the course of the week.

Spotted Hyena walking down the road in beautiful morning light.

Umlani is a great destination offering consistently good opportunities to wildlife photographers. The camp itself steers away from unnecessary opulence that removes its guests from the wild. This traditional bushcamp allows guests to immerse themselves in nature and the sights and sounds of the bush is not held back by a generator growling in the background, nor is the night sky blurred out by electric lights.

Rustic but close to nature. 

For the adventurous - why not a sleepout on a treehouse overlooking an active waterhole. 

For those seeking a close-to-nature experience it is certainly the place to go. A sleep-out deck next to an active waterhole offers the adventurous another unique opportunity to get a deeper insight into the African night.

One cannot really ask for more. A beautifull female leopard in the first golden rays of the morning. 

Additional dates have been set scheduled for 2017 but these are all booked out. Should you wish to join us for a safari in 2018 please get in touch. Alternatively we encourage any European clients to contact Amazing Views directly.

More than enough smaller creatures to fill the gaps "between the big stuff". 

On our last afternoon drive a hippo at our sundowner stop put up a great display, The fact he obliged during some of the most amazing light on the trip was much appreciated.

A very obliging Hippo put up a display for our last sundowner stop

And as we though the best was done a pair of large male lions bode us farewell.

The two brothers on our last mornings game-drive.